Sunday, May 16, 2010

Team Photo!


Here is a photo of the team at the vacant 14,200' camp, holding some "Thank You" cards produced by the kids at the Piedra Learning Community, the school this climb benefited. You can see the trail they broke up the hill behind them. The fixed line section up the "Headwall" ascends the snow and ice to the low point in the ridge at the top of the image.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Everyone is off the mountain.

The team arrived at Basecamp on Sunday. After a period of unsettled weather, Talkeetna Air Taxi was able to extract our crew. Most of the team spent the evening enjoying the offerings of Talkeetna. A couple folks returned to Anchorage. It's great to have the team back, I'm sure we all look forward to a bunch of amazing stories and photos.

Thanks again for following this blog. Be sure to check back in a day or so, the guide team usually posts a wrap-up of the trip.

Until next time...!

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Tough conditions up high!

Please accept my apologies for not posting for a day or so. Much has happen since the last post. I'll try to briefly recap. On Friday the winds had let up so the crew decided to make a push for the summit. Temps are still very cold and the group turned around at Denali Pass. The section getting up to the pass is a long rising traverse gaining about 1000 feet in altitude. One could expect a variety of conditions on this section, almost all of which require very slow and careful travel.

The crew returned to High Camp that evening and settled in for one last night up high. On Saturday the team broke camp and began the long journey down the mountain. After a brief stop at the 14,200 ft camp, the crew continued on down to the 11,200 ft camp and checked in for the evening. Mountain Trip has teams at each of these camps so I am sure they were met with plenty of hot drinks and maybe even soup at each stop.

The plan is for them to continue on to Basecamp where I expect to hear from them today.

We are really proud of this hearty crew. They have experienced something very few people could even imagine. An early season trip on the West Buttress is really special. Thanks to everyone for following the crew throughout this climb. I will continue to provide updates until everyone is safely back in Talkeetna.

Happy Trails!

Friday, May 7, 2010

Another day at High Camp.

Joe checked in last night to report another day of hanging out at High Camp. Winds up high on the mountain were raging. Temps are still quite cold with the daytime high yesterday hitting a balmy -10 degrees F. Considering the wind and cold temps, it makes for a simple decision to stay put. While the decision may be simple to make, it can be difficult to accept after so many days of waiting. The crew is hanging in there. They all wish to say hello to family and friends back home and thanks for following their trip.

Until next time...think warm thoughts.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Still hanging around at 17,200.

The crew called in last night to report another day at High Camp. They said things were a bit windy with some snow flurries and more cold temps. The spirits are high as they patiently await their opportunity. Most of the day was spent working to reinforce their camp. Teams will build enormous walls around their tents to minimize the affect of the seemingly unending winds at High Camp.

In addition to the added protection, this work helps people to further acclimatize. Everyone seems to be getting stronger by the day. They all wish to say hello to family and friends back home. Until next time...the waiting game continues.

Happy Trails!

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Acclimatizing at 17,200 ft.

Zach checked in last night to report pretty windy and cold conditions on Tues. The team spent the day in camp resting and refuelling for the pending summit day. Everyone is doing very well.

The forecast is calling for minor wind events for the next couple days. With the temps being what they are, the team is looking for a nice calm day to make their summit push. They have a well stocked camp at 17,200 ft. This affords them the option to be patient. The forecasts for the upper mountain seem to be wrong as much as right. It's a game of wait and see!

Happy Trails!

Phone call from 17,200 feet

Zach called and left the following message last night. Sounds chilly up there!

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

High Camp!

Zach called to check in last night from the 17,200 ft High Camp. He said the weather was perfect for their move day. The entire group is doing very well.

The move to High Camp can be an exhausting day. The crew will likely take a rest day today (Tues) then begin the wait and see game. Zach mentioned the temp was around minus 20 degrees F. as everyone was tucking in for the night. The terrain on the ridge from 16,200 ft to the 17,200 ft camp is some of the most remarkable climbing on the route.

The pending summit day is huge day for most climbers on the West Buttress. It will include another 3000 feet of ascent coupled with a little longer linear distance than the previous few days. The group will start by crossing a small basin out of camp then begin the long (about 1000 vertical ft.) upward traversing section referred to as the Autobahn. Atop this long traverse the climbers will find themselves at Denali Pass. Following the pass the group will work up less steep slopes past Zebra Rocks, slowly making their way toward Archdeacon's Tower. After cresting a small rise and short descent the group will enter the huge flat plateau known as the Football Field then begin a seemingly large headwall, Pig Hill. The ascent of Pig Hill is usually easier than one expects. Before long the climbers will find themselves on the summit ridge of Denali. The ridge is such a wonderful place for so many reasons. The summit ridge can be a somewhat tricky section with other parties trying to pass. This group won't have to worry about that. They will likely have the place to themselves.

Until next time, happy trails!

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Hanging around at 14,200.

Zach just phoned in from the Basin Camp at 14,200 ft on Denali. The crew elected to stay put today as the winds on the ridge between 16,200 and the 17,200 ft high camp appeared quite strong. Everyone is doing very well and in good spirits.

The night time temps have been pretty chilly, Zach reports about minus 25 degrees F most nights. The day time temps have been really very reasonable, near zero.

The team is hoping to make the move tomorrow to high camp if the winds subside a bit. The temps are cold but manageable so long as it's not very windy. The team's attitude seems great. If a reasonable window opens the team will move up, until it does they are comfortable staying put.

The mountain forecast calls for a bit of a wind event to begin Tuesday and run through Wednesday.

Zach was quite pleased to hear his little man, Logan, is crawling around. He wishes to say hello to both JoJo and Logan, he misses you very much. Thanks to everyone following this team on their benefit climb. Feel free to comment on the blog posts and we can try relay your thoughts to the team on the mountain.

Until next time...make it a great day!