April 18 2010 WB

Team Photo!

2010-05-16T08:46:00.000-07:00

Here is a photo of the team at the vacant 14,200' camp, holding some "Thank You" cards produced by the kids at the Piedra Learning Community, the school this climb benefited. You can see the trail they broke up the hill behind them. The fixed line section up the "Headwall" ascends the snow and ice to the low point in the ridge at the top of the image.

Everyone is off the mountain.

2010-05-10T07:49:00.000-07:00

The team arrived at Basecamp on Sunday. After a period of unsettled weather, Talkeetna Air Taxi was able to extract our crew. Most of the team spent the evening enjoying the offerings of Talkeetna. A couple folks returned to Anchorage. It's great to have the team back, I'm sure we all look forward to a bunch of amazing stories and photos.

Thanks again for following this blog. Be sure to check back in a day or so, the guide team usually posts a wrap-up of the trip.

Until next time...!

Tough conditions up high!

2010-05-09T07:49:00.000-07:00

Please accept my apologies for not posting for a day or so. Much has happen since the last post. I'll try to briefly recap. On Friday the winds had let up so the crew decided to make a push for the summit. Temps are still very cold and the group turned around at Denali Pass. The section getting up to the pass is a long rising traverse gaining about 1000 feet in altitude. One could expect a variety of conditions on this section, almost all of which require very slow and careful travel.

The crew returned to High Camp that evening and settled in for one last night up high. On Saturday the team broke camp and began the long journey down the mountain. After a brief stop at the 14,200 ft camp, the crew continued on down to the 11,200 ft camp and checked in for the evening. Mountain Trip has teams at each of these camps so I am sure they were met with plenty of hot drinks and maybe even soup at each stop.

The plan is for them to continue on to Basecamp where I expect to hear from them today.

We are really proud of this hearty crew. They have experienced something very few people could even imagine. An early season trip on the West Buttress is really special. Thanks to everyone for following the crew throughout this climb. I will continue to provide updates until everyone is safely back in Talkeetna.

Happy Trails!

Another day at High Camp.

2010-05-07T08:29:00.000-07:00

Joe checked in last night to report another day of hanging out at High Camp. Winds up high on the mountain were raging. Temps are still quite cold with the daytime high yesterday hitting a balmy -10 degrees F. Considering the wind and cold temps, it makes for a simple decision to stay put. While the decision may be simple to make, it can be difficult to accept after so many days of waiting. The crew is hanging in there. They all wish to say hello to family and friends back home and thanks for following their trip.

Until next time...think warm thoughts.

Still hanging around at 17,200.

2010-05-06T09:35:00.001-07:00

The crew called in last night to report another day at High Camp. They said things were a bit windy with some snow flurries and more cold temps. The spirits are high as they patiently await their opportunity. Most of the day was spent working to reinforce their camp. Teams will build enormous walls around their tents to minimize the affect of the seemingly unending winds at High Camp.

In addition to the added protection, this work helps people to further acclimatize. Everyone seems to be getting stronger by the day. They all wish to say hello to family and friends back home. Until next time...the waiting game continues.

Happy Trails!

Acclimatizing at 17,200 ft.

2010-05-05T08:17:00.000-07:00

Zach checked in last night to report pretty windy and cold conditions on Tues. The team spent the day in camp resting and refuelling for the pending summit day. Everyone is doing very well.

The forecast is calling for minor wind events for the next couple days. With the temps being what they are, the team is looking for a nice calm day to make their summit push. They have a well stocked camp at 17,200 ft. This affords them the option to be patient. The forecasts for the upper mountain seem to be wrong as much as right. It's a game of wait and see!

Happy Trails!

Phone call from 17,200 feet

2010-05-05T06:38:00.003-07:00

Zach called and left the following message last night. Sounds chilly up there!

High Camp!

2010-05-04T08:08:00.000-07:00

Zach called to check in last night from the 17,200 ft High Camp. He said the weather was perfect for their move day. The entire group is doing very well.

The move to High Camp can be an exhausting day. The crew will likely take a rest day today (Tues) then begin the wait and see game. Zach mentioned the temp was around minus 20 degrees F. as everyone was tucking in for the night. The terrain on the ridge from 16,200 ft to the 17,200 ft camp is some of the most remarkable climbing on the route.

The pending summit day is huge day for most climbers on the West Buttress. It will include another 3000 feet of ascent coupled with a little longer linear distance than the previous few days. The group will start by crossing a small basin out of camp then begin the long (about 1000 vertical ft.) upward traversing section referred to as the Autobahn. Atop this long traverse the climbers will find themselves at Denali Pass. Following the pass the group will work up less steep slopes past Zebra Rocks, slowly making their way toward Archdeacon's Tower. After cresting a small rise and short descent the group will enter the huge flat plateau known as the Football Field then begin a seemingly large headwall, Pig Hill. The ascent of Pig Hill is usually easier than one expects. Before long the climbers will find themselves on the summit ridge of Denali. The ridge is such a wonderful place for so many reasons. The summit ridge can be a somewhat tricky section with other parties trying to pass. This group won't have to worry about that. They will likely have the place to themselves.

Until next time, happy trails!

Hanging around at 14,200.

2010-05-02T22:36:00.001-07:00

Zach just phoned in from the Basin Camp at 14,200 ft on Denali. The crew elected to stay put today as the winds on the ridge between 16,200 and the 17,200 ft high camp appeared quite strong. Everyone is doing very well and in good spirits.

The night time temps have been pretty chilly, Zach reports about minus 25 degrees F most nights. The day time temps have been really very reasonable, near zero.

The team is hoping to make the move tomorrow to high camp if the winds subside a bit. The temps are cold but manageable so long as it's not very windy. The team's attitude seems great. If a reasonable window opens the team will move up, until it does they are comfortable staying put.

The mountain forecast calls for a bit of a wind event to begin Tuesday and run through Wednesday.

Zach was quite pleased to hear his little man, Logan, is crawling around. He wishes to say hello to both JoJo and Logan, he misses you very much. Thanks to everyone following this team on their benefit climb. Feel free to comment on the blog posts and we can try relay your thoughts to the team on the mountain.

Until next time...make it a great day!

At 14,200' Camp

2010-04-30T08:45:00.000-07:00

Joe called from the 14,200 foot camp. Everybody did great moving up to camp yesterday. Here is their dispatch:

At 14,200' camp!

2010-04-29T00:07:00.000-07:00

Zach called a bit ago from the big, empty basin that we often call Camp 3 or the 14,200 foot camp. They are the only team camped there, and he said they've seen no trace of any other party, although we heard there was a team just ahead of our group.

Everyone is doing great and in super good spirits. Enjoy the podcast!

Carried loads around Windy Corner

2010-04-27T21:53:00.000-07:00

Zach called from 11,200 foot camp a few minutes ago. The team carried loads up and around Windy Corner, caching their supplies at about 13,500 feet.

The route above the 11,200' camp ascends the steepest part of the route thus far, a feature called Motorcycle Hill. They traded their skies and snowshoes for crampons and began climbing. Above Motorcycle Hill there are two more steep sections, collectively know as Squirrel Hill. Squirrel Hill was barren of snow, but their crampons allowed them to make good time up and onto the long, relatively flat stretch above, called the Polo Field.

At the far end of the Polo Field, the route climbs again and turns a sharp, rocky corner of rock called Windy Corner. This rock corner leads up to the West Buttress proper. The team encountered numerous crevasses after they passed the corner and Albert poked through a bridge up to his waist into one of them, making for an exciting moment!

Everyone did really well today. Temperatures were quite warm until they climbed into a breeze blowing across Windy Corner. Tomorrow, they will pack up camp and push camp up and around the corner to into a large flat area in a huge basin, known as the 14,200' camp. Today was a big day and tomorrow will be even bigger, but the climbers are getting stronger by the day and more importantly, becoming more and more efficient.

Here is a podcast from the team!

Rest and acclimatization at 11,200 feet

2010-04-27T00:01:00.000-07:00

The team rested and acclimatized today at their camp at 11,200'. It was a low-visibility day, with high winds above them and they knew it was not a good day to try to push higher up on the mountain. They elected to hang out in camp and, from the sounds of things, basically stuff their faces...

Joe called to say they spent the day lounging, reading and listening to music. They had some Philly cheese steak sandwiches for lunch, but that apparently did not satiate their need for protein, as they had hamburgers for dinner. It would be pretty amazing if they all come home having gained weight! I thought expeditions were a form of high altitude weight loss...

By all accounts they are having a blast.

Camped at 11,200 feet

2010-04-25T20:45:00.001-07:00

Joe called a bit ago and said that the team had a big day today. They moved up to the stunning basin camp at 11,200 feet. They have all their food supplies with them and are looking forward to a macaroni and cheese with sausage dinner. Everyone did great and they are in a great position to acclimatize further and prepare for the push up and around Windy Corner to the 14,200' camp.

We have a podcast from the team:

Carried supplies to 11,200 feet

2010-04-24T20:11:00.000-07:00

Joe just called to report that the team is right on track. Yesterday, they moved camp to 9,500' on the Kahiltna glacier. The visibility opened up in the afternoon and they could take in some of their amazing surroundings.

Today they dropped back to pick up their cache below camp and then carried it all the way to a beautiful camp at 11,200'. This camp is located in a bowl, ringed by huge ice cliffs on one side and the infamous Motorcycle Hill directly above camp. Dark rocky outcrops form the third, northern side of the basin, while the fourth opens up with views of the heavily glaciated Kahiltna Dome and the snow covered tundra beyond.

They will spend the night at their 9,500 camp and then move up to 11,200' tomorrow. The weather looks pretty favorable for the next few days. We'll keep you posted!

The Benefit Bit...

2010-04-24T11:39:00.001-07:00

This climb is very special to us for many reasons, including the fact that these climbers are going to experience a very different West Buttress than 99% of the climbers who have ever attempted the route. In 17 Denali climbs, I've yet to walk into a camp that did not have many tents erected and have never walked for a day without seeing many many climbers heading up or down the mountain. I enjoy the social aspect of having other climbers around, but have always wondered what it would be like to climb it in a true wilderness setting. This team is experiencing that right now.

Another reason this climb is special to us is that we are donating all net proceeds to a very special program for special needs kids in southwest Colorado. Skills for Living and Learning is a non-profit program with a 15 year history, run by a very experienced Occupational Therapist in Bayfield, CO. Skills oversees the Piedra Learning Community, a clinic for evaluating children who may have sensory or developmental issues, an afterschool program for kids and a pre-school program.

Children who have difficulty in traditional, public schools can attend these programs or the Piedra Learning Community (PLC) for a very nominal tuition. Students with ADD, ADHD, on the Autism Spectrum and with Sensory Processing Disorder find a comfortable and safe feeling place to learn the skills they need to function in a more "typical" fashion. PLC serves kids aged 5-9, an age range when Occupational Therapy and accommodated instruction appear to be most beneficial in a child's life.

Mountain Trip co-owner, Todd Rutledge's son Logan attends PLC and has truly blossomed in their program. Logan has Sensory Processing Disorder (SPD), also known as Sensory Integration Dysfunction, which is a neuro-developmental disorder that affects how he perceives certain sensory input and develops motor plans for a response to that input. It is often associated with the Autism Spectrum, but may get its own, separate, classification in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual that is to be revised for 2013.

The Sensory Processing Foundation estimates that 1 in 20 children in the US has some form of SPD. SPD kids often have low muscle tone, which makes sitting in a chair in class and writing (fine motor skills) very difficult. They sometimes seek out sensory input by running around, spinning, and walking while leaning or brushing their hand against a wall. Other SPD kids avoid sensory input and fight wearing clothing that actually feels painful at times to their heightened tactile sense or refuse to climb up on playground equipment because their vestibular sense is telling them that if their feet leave the ground they might just fly away...

It is a puzzling and frustrating disorder that has seen more and more research over the past 30 years. Skills for Living and Learning focuses on SPD to a large extent and children receive daily doses of visual, movement and listening therapy. It is a wonderful program serving children who would otherwise have a very hard time and we at Mountain Trip are committed to doing what we can to help the program succeed and thrive.

The program has been renting space in an old public school elementary building, which is in desperate need of repair. Our goal is to help them raise the funds to build a modest, yet functional building of their own design, and therefore enable to program to grow and serve more children. To that end, we are donating all net proceeds from this expedition to the school. We will offer an Kilimanjaro climb this summer and perhaps an Aconcagua climb this winter to help support the school as well. Please tell your friends who may be interested in having a great climb and do some good work at the same time.

Anyone interested in donating to the program should send donations to:

Skills for Living and Learning
PO Box 966
Bayfield, CO 81122

Thanks for your time in reading this and for any support in our cause.

Best regards,
Todd

Waiting on a call

2010-04-24T11:38:00.000-07:00

Here is what Camp 1 might have looked like if the team had a break in the clouds. This is looking southeast across camp, with Mount Hunter in the background.

A team heading up the last series of hills to the camp at 11,200'

We didn't get a call from the crew last night, although Zach did phone in yesterday morning to check on the weather forecast. At that time, they were still in a dense cloud with very limited visibility. They were contemplating pushing up to a camp above Ski Hill, at about 9,500 or 9,700', but they might easily have just remained at Camp 1.

Here are some photos of parts of the route from a previous expedition. We'll update as soon as we hear from the team.

At Camp 1!

2010-04-21T21:47:00.000-07:00

Zach just called to report that the team is nestled in at Camp 1, located at about 7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. They traveled in very low visibility today, and at times they felt as if they were walking inside a ping pong ball. The sun yesterday consolidated the snow from the previous day's storm to some extent, and though they were all traveling on snowshoes or skis, they found the trail breaking to be manageable.

There were a couple of instances of climbers poking a leg into something that felt like a crevasse, but there was no confirmation of what caused the snow to give way under their snowshoe. The adrenaline rush they felt probably helped warm them up! Temperatures were moderate in the beginning of the day, but cooled as the sun passed behind the high ridgeline to the west of camp.

Dinner tonight is a chicken pasta dish that was reportedly smelling pretty tasty as its aroma wafted from the cook tent and out across the glacier.

Today was an example of what we call a "single carry." The climbers loaded up all of their clothes, food, fuel and supplies and carried it to the next camp in a single carry. From now on, they will probably employ what is known as a "double carry" technique, in which they load up about half of their total "stuff" and carry it to or near their next camp. They will bury their supplies in a deep hole in the snow and mark it well before returning to their camp to spend the night. This allows them to move a lot of "stuff" up the mountain without doing so in huge, crippling loads. It also allows them to get a taste of a higher elevation, but sleep at their previous, lower camp, and thereby ease themselves more gradually into the increasingly rarefied air of the upper mountain.

Everyone is in great spirits, and they are all feeling really good about their efforts of today. They are moving very well and are functioning as a very efficient team.

Tomorrow's activity will depend a lot on the visibility. If it is like today, with little wind or snow, but low visibility, they might carry some kit up the famous "Ski Hill" that rises 1,700' ahead of the team. We'll keep you posted!

Zack would like to send his love to his 8 month old son, Logan!

On the Glacier

2010-04-20T23:35:00.000-07:00

Zach called from the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier a couple of hours ago. It is hard to call it "Base Camp," as there is absolutely no infrastructure or other tents. Two feet of new snow fell yesterday, while they waited to fly in. It seems to have fallen with no wind, as it was light and deep!

The team spent the day organizing their equipment and reviewing skills. They set up camp and are currently all hunkered down for the evening. Temperatures ranged from about 38 degrees Fahrenheit in the sun to about 25 in the shade. They will sleep in tomorrow morning so as to take advantage of the sun and travel in its warmth.

There is apparently a team of five climbers ahead of our crew, so we're not the first team of the season on the mountain, but Zach said "Base Camp" was an amazingly peaceful place today.

Talkeetna Photos

2010-04-20T22:32:00.000-07:00

The team (clockwise from left to right): Ryan, Ben, Jorg, Eugene (told me to say Eugene loves Tina!), Albert, Pablo, Hunter, Zach, Will and Joe

Ryan Zach, Joe and Albert registering with the Park Service in Talkeetna

Ryan getting mauled by the skeleton Grizzly bear!!!

Albert showing off his fancy climbing boots

Zach, weighing the food for the flight into the glacier

It takes a lot of food and gear for a Denali expedition!

A photo for Susan Livingston, director of the Piedra Learning Community.
Our Irish climbers "tagged" our van with Irish paraphernalia!

In Talkeetna

2010-04-20T09:13:00.000-07:00

The team drove up to Talkeetna yesterday after a minor delay due to the radiator in our trusty van electing to misbehave a few hundred meters from the Earth Bed and Breakfast. We rounded up another van and made the two hour drive north to the little village of Talkeetna, where the climbers first met with the National Park Service and then weighed and sorted their kit for the flight to the mountain.

Time and again, we were all encouraged and entertained by the growing sense of team spirit that is developing between the climbers. Good natured heckling, teamwork with moving gear, and the inevitable bad jokes about even worse gas were shared (and endured!) by all.

The NPS orientation was provided by Chief District Ranger John Leonard himself, and all the climbers were briefed on how to take care of, and respect, the amazing place that they were about to encounter. John commented time and again of how fortunate this team is to have the opportunity to see the mountain in conditions unlike those that are experienced by 99% of Denali climbers. He cautioned them of the chances of increased cold, and reinforced that communication with their guides and amongst themselves is crucial for their well being up there.

The weather decided to lower and shut down any chance of flying last night, so the team made themselves comfortable at the free climber's bunkhouse provided by our flight service, Talkeetna Air Taxi. They then drove over to the compound of our friends at Alaska Mountaineering School to sit in on a presentation about the snowpack of the Alaska Range. Dinner at the West Rib restaurant saw them full and they retired to the bunkhouse for the night.

The Alaska Range looks clear and stunning this morning, so I expect we'll hear that they are loaded up and taking to the air at any minute. I'll keep you posted and will add some photos from yesterday in a post to follow shortly.

Headed for Talkeetna!

2010-04-19T08:34:00.000-07:00

The majority of our original climbing team arrived in Anchorage without incident and all met for a team meeting and equipment check. Two of our members' travel plans were thwarted by the Icelandic volcano and it's efficiency of shutting down all air travel from Europe. Fortunately, we have, with some much appreciated assistance from the National Park Service, been able to make other arrangements and get them on an upcoming expedition.

The remaining six climbers and the four guides all met at the legendary Earth Bed and Breakfast in Anchorage, sorted their kit and ran around to pick up last minute items. I had the pleasure of joining them for lunch at one of my favorite Anchorage restaurants, the Bear Tooth, and was very impressed with how the team has already "gelled," to borrow a term from Eugene.

We're all about to jump in our van for the two hour drive north to Talkeetna, a small little town to the southeast of Denali. The crew will check in with the National Park Service and then hopefully load up some ski planes and fly out to Base Camp.

Base Camp is a relative term, because at this time, there is no infrastructure on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna, whereas in two weeks, it will be teeming with NPS personnel, climbers and will become the bustling Kahiltna International Airport of lore.

I'll try to get some photos posted of the team and of their antics in Talkeetna.

Welcome to our Wilderness Denali Benefit Climb!

2010-04-19T08:16:00.000-07:00

In the far north lies one of the most magnificent ranges of mountains in the world. The Alaska Range stretches 400 miles across southcentral Alaska. It is a wild place, covered in glaciers and punctuated by rugged peaks. The crown of the range is Denali, at 20,320 feet (6194 m), the highest peak in North America. Located so close to the Arctic circle, Denali can present some of the most challenging and rugged conditions of any mountain on earth.

Each year a relatively few climbers from around the world migrate to test themselves on the slopes of Denali. Mountain Trip has been assisting these climbers achieve their Denali dreams since 1976. We love what we do and are happy to help provide you a taste of what these climbers are experiencing by updating their progress in this blog. Following the expedition, we will post numerous photos from the expedition, so please keep checking in.

On April 18, 2010, a small team of climbers will arrive in Anchorage. The climbers are the first climbing team of the season to attempt Denali. Their challenge is helping raise funds for a very special school for children with special needs, located in Bayfield, Colorado. Skills for Living and Learning, and its subsidiary, Piedra Learning Community, help many kids in southwest Colorado who would otherwise have a very challenging time in the early years of their public education.

The assembled climbers will be accompanied by the following Mountain Trip guides:

Zach Johnson from Anchorage, AK
Joe Butler from Anchorage, AK
Pablo Puruncajas from Riobamba, Ecuador
Ben Adkinson from Missoula, MT

The climbers are:

Will Dwyer from California
Jörg Spieldenner from Switzerland
Eugene Harrington from Ireland
Albert Connaughton from Ireland
Ryan Longo from the Garden State, Jersey-Baby!
Hunter Horgan from New York

Please keep in mind that communication from the big mountains can be challenging and occasionally intermittent. We will post updates as often as possible, but please keep in mind the old adage, "NO NEWS IS GOOD NEWS!" when it comes to communications from the Range.

Also, please be advised that while we will attempt to pass comments along to the climbers, this is not always possible. The intent of this dispatch blog is to keep you up to date on your friends' and loved ones' progress while on the expedition, and to give you an opportunity to express your support of their dreams. We are certain they will love to read all of your comments when they get back to civilization, so please do post comments.